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Europe Tour 2019: Bratislava and Prague
Oct. 27th, 2019 07:51 amFollowing Vienna the next stop of the journey was Bratislava, capital of Slovakia and a mere hour or so away from Vienna. The city has some charms, especially an extensive old city for its size, but one can see why it's overlooked on many visitor tours. Staying on south side of the river at Hotel Expo was a little outside the main events but it had some benefits as well, with a morning walk around the old border forest between Czechoslovakia and Austria before making it over the "UFO bridge" to locations more worthy of visiting. For travellers, something really worthy of note is the Laundromat Cafe. After both the laundries near the hotel in Vienna were closed, this was a sight for sore eyes. A traditional Slovak dinner was to be had at Cafe Restaurant Verne, which is in a rather beautiful location on Hviezdoslavovo Namestie. The following day included a visit to Mačacia Labka (Cat Cafe) where several local rescue cats are present to charm.
And that was the quick trip to Bratislava. I cannot help but think that they were on the worse end of the deal following the Dissolution of Czechoslovakia, which was never subject to popular consultation. It's definitely a little on the poorer side as you can tell from infrastructure and fittings, even if there is the gleaming new buildings and shopping centre on the south side of the city. You might think that the breaking up of a country would be something that people, on the principle of national self-determination, might want to have a vote on. As it is, only a minority in both Slovakia and the Czech Republic thought it was a good idea then, and still think so now. So here's to Czechoslovakian self-determination.
After Bratislava was a train journey to Prague; late and overcrowded with a small army of university students returning over orientation week. I sparked up a conversation with a Red Hat cloud developer from the United States and his artist partner, and with a Czech university student who took to the opportunity to practise his English skills (my Czech skills are almost non-existent). It certainly made the four-hour "standing room only" trip a lot easier. Finally reaching Prague, checked in to the Lavanda Hotel and Apartments, which was quite nicely placed with short tram trips to the main parts of the city. Prague is, as everyone will testify, a truly beautiful city and quite reasonably priced. It also has some deliciously gothic history, with visits to the Dripstone Wall, the Museaum of Alchemists and Magicians, and even the too famous astronomical clock all provide. As a moment of delightful serendipity spent a late lunch with Colleen Hartland, former Greens MLC for Melbourne West and her partner Victor. We have spent time in meetings together, but never over casual conversation, and we'll certainly do so again.
The following day was a visit to a bric-a-brac-cum-antiques store, run by a pair of Serbians. Following the fall of the Eastern bloc, Prague, in particular, was completed raided by western antiques dealers by the truckload and the days of bargain pieces are truly long gone. Nevertheless, it was a charming way to spend a few hours fossicking among this vast collection of bits and pieces, and I'm sure our Serbian friends were happy with the sale of a few classic watches and glassware as well. Escaping from the clutches of these charming purveyors of odds-and-ends, finally made the way to the famous Prague Castle with its extensive grounds. Alas, access to the defenestration window was not available due to repairs, which was my main reason for wanting to go. On the way back dropped in for an hour at a baroque concert (quintet strings) at Liechenstein Palace. The musicians, from Prague Philarmonic and Prague Symphony, played with acumen and pleasure, and even with some humour as their performance of Strauss' Pizzicato Polka indicated.
And that was the quick trip to Bratislava. I cannot help but think that they were on the worse end of the deal following the Dissolution of Czechoslovakia, which was never subject to popular consultation. It's definitely a little on the poorer side as you can tell from infrastructure and fittings, even if there is the gleaming new buildings and shopping centre on the south side of the city. You might think that the breaking up of a country would be something that people, on the principle of national self-determination, might want to have a vote on. As it is, only a minority in both Slovakia and the Czech Republic thought it was a good idea then, and still think so now. So here's to Czechoslovakian self-determination.
After Bratislava was a train journey to Prague; late and overcrowded with a small army of university students returning over orientation week. I sparked up a conversation with a Red Hat cloud developer from the United States and his artist partner, and with a Czech university student who took to the opportunity to practise his English skills (my Czech skills are almost non-existent). It certainly made the four-hour "standing room only" trip a lot easier. Finally reaching Prague, checked in to the Lavanda Hotel and Apartments, which was quite nicely placed with short tram trips to the main parts of the city. Prague is, as everyone will testify, a truly beautiful city and quite reasonably priced. It also has some deliciously gothic history, with visits to the Dripstone Wall, the Museaum of Alchemists and Magicians, and even the too famous astronomical clock all provide. As a moment of delightful serendipity spent a late lunch with Colleen Hartland, former Greens MLC for Melbourne West and her partner Victor. We have spent time in meetings together, but never over casual conversation, and we'll certainly do so again.
The following day was a visit to a bric-a-brac-cum-antiques store, run by a pair of Serbians. Following the fall of the Eastern bloc, Prague, in particular, was completed raided by western antiques dealers by the truckload and the days of bargain pieces are truly long gone. Nevertheless, it was a charming way to spend a few hours fossicking among this vast collection of bits and pieces, and I'm sure our Serbian friends were happy with the sale of a few classic watches and glassware as well. Escaping from the clutches of these charming purveyors of odds-and-ends, finally made the way to the famous Prague Castle with its extensive grounds. Alas, access to the defenestration window was not available due to repairs, which was my main reason for wanting to go. On the way back dropped in for an hour at a baroque concert (quintet strings) at Liechenstein Palace. The musicians, from Prague Philarmonic and Prague Symphony, played with acumen and pleasure, and even with some humour as their performance of Strauss' Pizzicato Polka indicated.
