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The end of 2025 and the first days of 2026 have been spent in Antarctica. The crossing of the notorious Drake Passage was mostly smooth sailing, a "Drake Lake" event. There was the delightful imaginary point where the Pacific, Atlantic, and Southern Oceans meet, and much of the Passage's reputation comes from the Antarctic Convergence where the warmer waters of the former meet the colder waters of the latter, mixed with often strong winds funnelled from South America. The weather is unpredictable, and there's a lot of it, but this is the best and safest time of year to attempt the journey. According to tradition, crossing Cape Horn also entitles one to a particular sailor's tattoo; something I shall attend to on my return. Most of the journey was cool, hovering around zero, overcast and with light snowfall, although one day it did drop to -9C with the wind-chill accounted for.

As for Antarctica itself, we only ventured but a few hundred kilometers along the northern tip of the peninsula, around Anvers Island, through the Gerlache Strait, via the Bransfield Strait, up to Deception Island and the South Shetlands, then King Geoge Island, and ultimately to Elephant Island (named after the seal, not for the Afro-Asiatic Elephantidae family). This is the most populated region of Antarctica, not only humans from the numerous bases of multiple countries scattered among the islands and peninsula proper, but also with playful penguins (chinstrap and gentoo were particularly prevalent), fur seals, and numerous seabirds (albatrosses, petrels, skua, shag, and gulls). The area is especially rich in krill, zooplankton, and phytoplankton from which Earthly life ultimately depends on for food and oxygen. Their presence also resulted in numerous sightings of whales, especially humpback whales, and the occasional orca pod. As far as the humback is concerned, this is the whale capital of the world. We were also visited by staff from the Port Lockroy UK Antarctic Heritage Trust for an informative presentation.

Back in the Passage, and with more than a day open sea voyage ahead of us before reaching Port Stanley in the Falklands (or Islas Malvinas), one final and appropriate Antarctic action was required - to start a game of "Beyond the Mountains of Madness", the famed (at least among a certain crowd) sequel to H.P. Lovecraft's short novel, "At The Mountains of Madness". At sea pastimes aside, visiting Antarctica is the fulfilment of a childhood dream, spurred by Scholastic Books and primary school atlases. The numerous on-board lectures on ecology, geology, history, and the curious sovereignty claims were accessible and informative, although I think they could do with a climatology session! The scenery and wildlife were truly beautiful and grand. I have developed an even greater sense of wonder, concern, and knowledge of the world's coldest, driest, and highest continent with its fragile ecology. If I ever return, and I hope to do so, it will be in a professional capacity.
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Although the trip to South America and Antarctica for Kate and me is two months away, there have been a few progressive and positive changes as that date nears. The first is a very recent decision from Chile that Australian passport holders no longer require a tourist visa for stays up to 90 days. That is quite beneficial, as there are a couple of visits to said country on the itinerary, including the capital, Santiago, and Punta Arenas in Tierra del Fuego. The second was a visit to the Travel Doctor-TMVC for a few various vaccines and boosters in preparation for the trip, of which the Yellow fever vaccine was most notable. I still had my WHO vaccine card from the last time I visited said clinic over twenty years ago for my first trip to Timor-Leste, and have carried it around with my passport ever since!

A third update is a decision by yours truly to flesh out the itinerary for various cities and towns that we're visiting that's not part of the standard tour. Unsurprisingly, this will include over fifty museums, art galleries, theatres, historic buildings and the like, which this lover of art and beauty cannot ignore, no matter what country I visit. Said locales include Santiago, Lima, Cusco, Buenos Aires, Punta Arenas, Ushuaia, Stanley, and Montevideo, so if any readers have recommendations they are very welcome. What I haven't done yet is work out what to do on the several days on the cruise ship from Buenos Aires to Antarctica and return, which I suspect will be quite boring, and I'll end up spending most of my time either in the theatre, gym, or dining. Fortunately, a deck plan is available.

Finally, with some prior learning and a great deal of recent interest, I have spent a good amount of time building my Spanish language skills in recent months to the point that I feel fairly comfortable with B1 CEFR level communication. Most of this has been through Duolingo, as always. However, being of a certain age, I have also joined and enrolled in the Spanish language and literature classes conducted by the Melbourne city University of the Third Age. I must confess I prefer the current French title (which the concept originated in 1973) as "Union Française des Universités de Tous Ages". Still, each body is independent and makes its own rules, and I rather suspect I'm going to enjoy this environment.
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A couple of weeks ago, I made initial preparations for an upcoming trip to South America and Antarctica with my friendly neighbour Kate R., and last week, payments were made for said voyage. In addition to the tour's planned route to Lima, Cusco, Machu Picchu, Buenos Aires, Punta Arenas, Ushuaia, the Antarctic Peninsula, the Falkland Islands, Montevideo, and Buenos Aires (again), we've added a couple of nights in Santiago. To say the least, the trip isn't cheap by any stretch of the imagination, but there is a great deal of ruggedness involved on the itinerary, and volume makes a difference as well. There are many practical tasks to be undertaken between now and December, including improving my questionable competence in the Spanish language. I have smashed my way through the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile introductory course in Spanish over the past fortnight, at least in part helped by an existing "fairly good" B1 level on Duolingo.

Eschewing the numerous optional activities offered by the tour company that are not really to my taste, I am scanning attractions that suit my inclinations toward museums, art galleries, archaeology, natural beauty, and, in the South American style, anything relating to their surrealist and magical realist literary traditions. I already have firmly marked out "La Chascona", built by Pablo Neruda, who, apart from winning the 1971 Nobel Prize in Literature for his surrealist love poems, was also a career diplomat and politician. Another site of this ilk to visit will be the "Centro Cultural Borges" in Buenos Aires, dedicated to the mythologist, writer, and poet Jorge Luis Borges. This said, the pair of them come with certain controversies, as if often the case, the art and the artist make a troublesome union.

It seems fitting that so much of the trip will be an exploration of wondrous landscapes in reality, history, archeology, and the literary tradition of surrealism and magical realism, and, I readily admit, I will be drawing a great deal of this travel experience in writing my "Call of Cthulhu" project "Fragments of Time, Slices of Mind". As that is being written, I have decided to run a short campaign using "ElfQuest", based on the comic series by Wendy and Richard Pini with their palaeolithic and telepathic characters. In the most recent months, I have been quite involved in a game run by Andrew D., "Night's Dark Agents", which is a story involving modern European special operations teams versus vampires. Finally, on this trajectory and of marginal interest to anyone not deeply into the lore, I have picked up (at an incredibly cheap price) an unpunched copy of Chaosium's "Dragon Pass", close to fifty years old and in "almost new" condition.

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Diary of a B+ Grade Polymath

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